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From Heritage New Zealand, Winter 2003

Wandering the Trails of History

by Harry Broad

The 37-metre- high Poolburn Viaduct Photo: David Wall

When the Otago Central rail line, which once ran from Dunedin to Cromwell, closed in 1990, most folk predicted a quiet shifting of the fences as time and nature obliterated what was once the mighty heartbeat of Central Otago.

But, thanks to an imaginative partnership between the Department of Conservation and a community trust driven by that redoubtable renaissance man of Dunedin Les Cleveland, the idea of a biking and walking trail covering 150 kilometres from Middlemarch to Clyde was converted into action.

Establishing the Otago Central Rail Trail took a number of years but it is now visited by between 10,000 and 15,000 people a year. Nearly $1 million was raised to help restore the viaducts and tunnels that make it such an interesting experience to walk and ride.

The investment is well worth it. Little towns along the way, like Lauder and Oturehua, and even the bigger ones such as Ranfurly, are enjoying a remarkable rejuvenation as the visitors make full use of the increasing number of facilities provided by entrepreneurial locals.

One of the great unimagined benefits of the rail trail is the recognition by local people of the rich heritage the area has to offer. Central Otago farmer and Wedderburn identity Graeme Duncan used to tell inquisitive visitors to the trail, "We don't have any history around here." Or so he thought. "In fact, one Sunday morning we got up early to watch an All Black test and I never got to see the second half because these visitors kept asking about the place," Duncan says with a smile.

Locals have now started to view and value their own cultural and natural landscapes in a new perspective because travellers, not just from New Zealand but from all over the world, find it such a fascinating place to visit and explore.

Most of the understandable fears of the farming community about possible vandalism and careless crossing of their properties have proved unfounded. The people using the trail are largely selfregulating and come with respect and willingness to learn about Central Otago. One reason the trail appeals to families is that every 20 or 30 kilometres walkers and riders can leave it and visit one of the small towns to enjoy the genuine hospitality on offer.

As DoC Otago conservator Jeff Connell says: "One of the great attractions of the trail is the chance to connect with the steady pace of a rural life attuned to the seasons, something many of us knew when New Zealand was a smaller place."

Harry Broad works for the Department of Conservation.

For further information:

Visit the website about the Otago Central Rail Trail

A comprehensive brochure detailing the Otago Central Rail Trail including a map is available at local information centres.